Saturday 30 January 2016
That Andre Garrett has his name above the door at one of England’s finest addresses will come as no surprise to anyone who has followed his career. The Bath-born chef moved to London in the early 90s to work with culinary legend Nico Ladenis, ultimately ecoming Head Chef of the acclaimed Nico Central in Great Portland Street.
Garrett spent two years with Bruno Loubet at his influential Soho restaurant Bistro Bruno, but made his greatest impact in the capital during his 13 years working with the Galvin brothers, winning Michelin stars as Head Chef at both the Orrey in Marylebone and Galvin at Windows in Park Lane.
Now, after more than two decades in the city, Garrett has moved to the Berkshire countryside. Originally built in the 1700s as a hunting lodge, Cliveden has hosted royalty, A-list celebrities and is famously the setting for the Profumo affair in the 60s. A meal at Cliveden is everything you’d hope dining in a grand English country house hotel might be. The setting is truly opulent with magnificent crystal chandeliers, gold leaf on walls hung with gilt mirrors and fine oil paintings and full height windows set with swagged silk curtains that frame the view of Cliveden’s beautifully tended National Trust grounds.
Garrett’s style of cooking marries a peerless technique, deeply rooted in classical cuisine but with lots of modernising touches to lighten the food. For example, his version of the classic Dover sole Veronique features wild line caught Cornish fish, filleted then rolled and poached in a water bath and served with braised baby fennel, blow torch cooked Baby Gem lettuce, a verjus and dried grape butter sauce and reduced chicken jus. His eightcourse tasting menus are true gastronomic events encompassing fine seasonal British
produce that on occasion he pairs with some exotic ingredients, as in his dish of salt-cured duck liver tourchon, roast duck jelly, grilled peach, Indian long pepper and Japanese saké.
Garrett’s achievements outside of restaurant kitchens are impressive. He won the prestigious Roux Scholarship in 2002 (part of his prize allowed him to spend a month in the kitchen of three Michelin starred chef Guy Savoy in Paris), he received a Master of the Culinary Arts (MCA) in 2005, was selected to represent the UK in the 2007 Bocuse d’Or competition and now sits on the board of the Academy of Culinary Arts.
Andre Garrett's Obsession 16 Menu:
KOMBU CURED CORNISH MACKEREL
SMOKED EEL BEIGNET, COD’S ROE, KOHLRABI
Guinevere, Gusbourne, English Wines of Distinction, Kent, England, 2013
SEARED ORKNEY SCALLOPS
MUSQUÉE DE PROVENCE PUMPKIN « RISOTTO » TAMARI GLAZED PORK BELLY
Château Lestrille Capmartin Bordeaux Blanc, France, 2012
ROAST RACK OF HERDWICK HOGGET
MERGUEZ, ROSCOFF ONION, TOASTED GEM, MUSTARD SEEDS
Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, 1999
BATH BLUE, CANDIED WALNUTS
Gewürztraminer, Lawson’s Dry Hills, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2012
PEANUT BUTTER PARFAIT
SALTED CARAMEL, MORELLO CHERRY, POPCORN ICE CREAM
Ramos Pinto 10yr Old Tawny Port, Quinta da Ervamoira, Portugal